Beautiful Lies: The Art of the Deep Fake

“MY WORK IS about telling the truth, about capturing it, about showing it and about presenting it,” writes the Norwegian photojournalist Jonas Bendiksen in an introductory essay to The Book of Veles, his latest volume of photographs. “The truth is what you see, and it’s the essence of photography.”

In 2019 and again in early 2020, just before the onset of the pandemic, Bendiksen traveled to the small city of Veles on the Vardar River in North Macedonia. The trips were inspired by a series of press reports, beginning in the late stages of the 2016 US presidential campaign, which revealed that Veles was a major source of the fake news stories flooding Facebook and other social media sites. Scores of young people in the impoverished city had discovered that they could make a decent living by fabricating and circulating stories celebrating Donald Trump and denigrating Hillary Clinton.

In his essay, Bendiksen reports on meeting several of the most successful scammers, some of whom were working out of small offices with teams of colleagues. None of them expressed any interest in, much less regret about, the social ramifications of their work. To them, the fractious political situation in the United States was just a convenient opportunity to attract an online audience and earn ad revenues. “I support Trump for a few reasons,” a young man named Alex explained to Bendiksen. “One, he makes money. Two, he makes Americans happy. Third, he makes money quickly.”

Any attempt to curb fake news is doomed to fail, Alex went on to say. “There are too many haters on the net, and too many fake news sites, and fake news is the new truth. The main thing is that we believe in freedom of speech.”

Bendiksen’s book presents dozens of haunting images of the city and its inhabitants. A man leans out of a window of a large apartment block, a pair of satellite dishes hanging nearby. A woman sits on an unmade bed, gazing into the screen of a laptop. Two lovers embrace under a highway overpass. Soldiers stand smoking behind a barbed-wire fence. A bear wanders past a graveyard at the edge of town. Another bear drinks from a dirty stream.

Grainy and dimly lit, the images are eerie, poignant, and beautiful. They’re also fake.

Bendiksen did make two trips to Veles, but he didn’t photograph any people. He shot pictures of empty buildings and deserted cityscapes, and when he returned home to Norway he used video-game-production software to transform the images into three-dimensional renderings. He then downloaded digitized, 3D images of models from the web and placed them inside the scenes, carefully adjusting their poses, clothing, and lighting to make everything look as realistic as possible. Finally, he transformed the renderings back into two-dimensional images. The “photographs” that appear in the book are, essentially, screen grabs from a video game that doesn’t exist.

Bendiksen’s introductory essay, too, is a fake. He didn’t write any of it. Instead, he fed existing news stories about Veles and social media fraud into GPT-2, a software program that employs machine-learning algorithms to generate fake text, and used a variety of prompts to get the program to spit out made-up stories on the topics he wanted to cover. He pieced bits of the stories together, including the entirely fictional interview with “Alex,” to produce the essay. “My work is about telling the truth”: those words aren’t Bendiksen’s; they’re the words of a computer.

When The Book of Veles appeared in July, Bendiksen assumed that readers would see through his ruse. He went out of his way to circulate the book and its images among professional photographers, confident that they would quickly realize the photos were fabrications. He was wrong. His work earned praise but not suspicion. Anxious to come clean, he created a fake Twitter account under the name “Chloe Miskin” and, in early September, used it to raise doubts about his photographs. That didn’t work, either. Finally, in an interview posted on the website of his agency, Magnum Photos, in late September, he confessed to the deception. He also explained his motivation:

I started to ask myself the question — how long will it take before we start seeing “documentary photojournalism” that has no other basis in reality than the photographer’s fantasy and a powerful computer graphics card? Will we be able to tell the difference? How hard is it to do? How skilled will our own community of photographers and editors be in sniffing out what are deep fakes and what is real? I was so frightened by what the answers would be that I decided to try to do this myself.

When you read The Book of Veles now, knowing it’s a fake, the artifice jumps out at you. The facial features of the people in the photos look slightly plastic, and many of their poses feel unnatural, as if their bones were flexible rather than rigid. Some of the pictures, such as one of a girl floating across an otherwise abandoned public swimming pool on an inflatable unicorn in winter, come off as ludicrous. Bendiksen’s essay reads like a cut-and-paste job, marked by clumsy phrasing and ungainly transitions. And, in the book’s concluding acknowledgments section, the author slyly lists the image-manipulation tools he used. “What fun toys,” he comments.

The fact that no one spotted the forgery underscores just how easy it is to fool people, even experts. We humans want to believe whatever’s presented to our senses through the media, particularly when it takes the form of images. “Photographs furnish evidence,” wrote Susan Sontag in her 1977 classic On Photography. “A photograph passes for incontrovertible proof that a given thing happened. The picture may distort; but there is always a presumption that something exists, or did exist, which is like what’s in the picture.” Take away that presumption, and our ideas about existence get tenuous fast.

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“Images are powerful,” writes Noah Giansiracusa, a Bentley University mathematics professor, in How Algorithms Create and Prevent Fake News; “altering images is a method to alter reality and history.”

As Giansiracusa shows, image manipulation has been around as long as images have. A widely circulated photograph of Abraham Lincoln taken during the presidential campaign of 1860 was subtly altered by the photographer, Mathew Brady, to make the candidate appear more attractive. Brady enlarged Lincoln’s shirt collar, for instance, to hide his bony neck. In a portrait made to memorialize Lincoln after his assassination, the artist Thomas Hicks, working from earlier pictures, transposed Lincoln’s head onto a more muscular man’s body to make the fallen president look heroic. The body Hicks used was that of the pro-slavery zealot John C. Calhoun.

In 1950, in the midst of the Red Scare, Senator Joseph McCarthy’s staff circulated a fabricated composite image purporting to show Senator Millard Tydings, a fierce critic of McCarthy’s, in close conversation with the leader of the American Communist Party, Earl Browder. Historians suspect that the photo contributed to Tydings’s defeat in his reelection campaign that year.

Opponents of John Kerry’s 2004 presidential bid pulled a similar stunt. They made a composite photo showing Kerry standing beside the controversial actress Jane Fonda at a rally opposing the Vietnam War. The photo was widely accepted as real, even earning a mention in a New York Times article about Kerry’s youthful activism. Early this year, after Kerry joined the Biden administration, the same picture began circulating again, this time on Facebook.

Photos don’t need to be doctored to mislead. They need only be placed into a false context. During the Black Lives Matter protests in 2020, the Trump reelection campaign posted an ad featuring two side-by-side pictures. One showed the president meeting with police officials, with the caption “Public Safety.” The other showed police being attacked by a mob, with the caption “Chaos & Violence.” The timing of the ad implied that the latter photo was taken at a BLM protest, but it was actually taken at a pro-democracy rally in the Ukraine in 2014. The out-of-context ploy works equally well with videos. Giansiracusa points to a horrifying clip of a person being burned alive that’s been used, inaccurately, to back up claims of atrocities in at least four countries.

Such examples of images that are altered or otherwise falsified using traditional techniques are now referred to as shallow fakes. That’s to distinguish them from the deep fakes being generated by computers using machine learning and other artificial-intelligence techniques. The process of creating a deep fake is complicated, to say the least. In simple terms, it begins by teaching a computer to identify an object in a digitized image — a human face, say — by showing it many examples of that object. (The computer doesn’t actually learn what a face looks like, of course; it learns to recognize a pattern of pixels — a statistical pattern — that has a high probability of being a face.) The computer can then alter the appearance of a face, by changing the pattern of pixels, while ensuring that it will still be recognized as a face. It can also replace one person’s facial features and expressions with another person’s. And it can generate an image of an entirely new face — a face that has never existed — by producing a new array of pixels that fits the statistical model.

Deep fakes began to appear on social media about five years ago. Transposing a celebrity’s face onto a porn star’s body proved to be the most popular early use of the technology, with the resulting photos and videos appearing widely on sites like Reddit. Giansiracusa points to a 2019 survey that found that 96 percent of the deep fakes on the net at the time were “face-swap pornography.” Since then, deep fakes have proliferated — and become much more convincing. On TikTok, a series of videos featuring a strikingly realistic, but completely fake, Tom Cruise has been watched by millions.

The high-tech forgeries are also becoming much easier to create, thanks to technical advances and a welter of free production apps. No longer restricted to titillation and entertainment, deep fakes are starting to be used in politics, crime, and espionage. In March of this year, the FBI warned that “malicious actors” would soon begin using “synthetic content” as a tool for propaganda and cyber attacks.

Machine learning is also being applied to the production of bogus text, as Bendiksen’s essay illustrates. By scanning the internet’s enormous repository of prose, a computer can learn how words fit together to create sentences and paragraphs. It can build an ever more accurate mathematical model of how language works. Again, the computer’s understanding is purely a matter of statistics — it has no sense of meaning — but that’s enough to enable it to manufacture natural-sounding writing on any topic in any style. Give the machine a simple prompt — a headline, say, or a few introductory sentences — and it will in an instant output a reasonable facsimile of a human-penned article. Research cited by Giansiracusa suggests that most people can’t distinguish text written by GPT-3, the much more powerful successor to Bendiksen’s GPT-2, from the work of actual writers. And GPT-4, which will be much more powerful still, is already in development.

The spread of ever more realistic deep fakes will make it even more likely that people will be taken in by fake news and other lies. The havoc of the last few years is probably just the first act of a long misinformation crisis. Eventually, though, we’ll all begin to take deep fakes for granted. We’ll come to take it as a given that we can’t believe our eyes. At that point, deep fakes will start to have a very different and perhaps even more pernicious effect. They’ll amplify not our gullibility but our skepticism. As we lose trust in the information we receive, we’ll begin, in Giansiracusa’s words, to “doubt reality itself.” We’ll go from a world where our bias was to take everything as evidence — the world Sontag described — to one where our bias is to take nothing as evidence.

The question is, what happens to “the truth” — the quotation marks seem mandatory now — when all evidence is suspect?

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Bendiksen borrowed the title of his book from an ancient manuscript, written on thin wooden boards bound together with leather straps, that dates back more than a thousand years. The manuscript is said to have been discovered by a soldier in a bombed-out castle in the Ukraine in 1919. The soldier later gave it to a Russian scientist named Yuriy Mirolubov, who restored the boards, photographed them, and translated their words into modern Russian. The manuscript provides accounts of the god Veles, a prominent deity in Slavic mythology. Known as a shapeshifter, a magician, and a trickster, Veles would often visit the mortal world in the form of a bear, making mischief wherever he went.

The ancient Book of Veles shares something else with its namesake: it’s a fake. Historians now believe the manuscript was forged, probably by Mirolubov, sometime in the middle of the 20th century. Some members of contemporary neo-pagan cults nevertheless continue to consider the book a holy text.

In his own Book of Veles, Bendiksen intersperses passages from the old manuscript among his photographs. He generated the passages the same way he generated the essay: with GPT-2. Technically speaking, they’re deep fakes of shallow fakes, or deep shallow fakes. On one level, the passages are just another of Bendiksen’s tricks — more mischief. As he explains in his Magnum interview, “Stuff like this always gets me interested: when stories start layering up and weaving themselves together in surprising ways.” But the references to the pagan god also add an unexpected resonance to the photos. By drawing mythology into his work, Bendiksen is suggesting something profound about the nature of truth and the representation of reality.

Myths are works of art. They provide a way of understanding the world that appeals not to reason but to emotion. What’s most pleasing to our sensibilities — what’s most beautiful, in other words — is what’s true. Though it may have been shoved aside by the Enlightenment’s stress on rationality and objectivity, mythology’s subjective and fundamentally aesthetic way of defining what’s true never went away. Now, after a few centuries on the periphery, it seems to be moving back into the mainstream. Once again, truth is becoming an aesthetic construct.

Think about the growing popularity, in QAnon circles and elsewhere, of extraordinarily strange conspiracy theories. They only make sense when understood as myths. Believing that Washington politicians are vampiric pedophiles operating out of a neighborhood pizza parlor, or that world leaders like George W. Bush and Queen Elizabeth II are extraterrestrial “lizard people” bent on enslaving the human race, is no different from believing that a chaos-sowing god stalks the Earth in the form of a bear. When all the evidence presented to our senses is unreal, then strangeness becomes a criterion of truth. The more uncanny the story, the more attractive and convincing it becomes.

In creating beautiful photographs that subvert the documentary tradition of photography and call into question our assumptions about how we perceive reality, Bendiksen has opened a door onto a weird and unsettling future. “Beauty is truth,” wrote Keats, and as we all know, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

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Nicholas Carr is the author of several books on technology and culture, including The Shallows, The Glass Cage, and Utopia Is Creepy. He is a visiting professor of sociology at Williams College.

Winter color brightens up dark days

An orange winterberry provides color during cold months.

This week as I was walking back and forth in the pool exercising before my operation, I hope. I had one of the lovely ladies in the pool ask me a question. Seems she has been a fan of my column since she moved back from Florida. She commented about how she longed for the flowers she enjoyed in Florida all year long.

Can you imagine that? Flowers all year long. Seriously, in a way I am jealous of flowers fresh from your garden for your table all year that they have in Florida. I like the idea, but there are challenges that come with this concept.

One of my favorite landscape designers was a lady who lived from 1843-1932. She was a trained artist, yet her sight was waning during the productive years of her 50s. Loss of sight is a challenge for designers and artists as you might think.

12 books for the outdoor enthusiast on your holiday shopping list

Got nature lovers among your friends and family? Check out these 12 books that could be the perfect holiday present!

Finding the Mother Tree is a memoir by Suzanne Simard. (Bill Heath, Allen Lane)

Biologist Suzanne Simard discovered the reality of the interconnection and intelligence of the forest. She’s been able to find out that the trees are indeed whispering to each other — communicating not through the wind, but through the soil. Her new scientific memoir, Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest, describes her life and research. 

Finding the Mother Tree was the grand prize winner for the 2021 Banff Mountain Book Competition and a category winner for the mountain environment and natural history award.

Simard is a B.C.-based author and academic who grew up in Canadian forests as a descendant of loggers. She is a professor in the department of forest and conservation sciences at the University of British Columbia. 

Why ‘mother trees’ are crucial in fighting climate change

UBC scientist Suzanne Simard researches how the oldest trees in forests nurture, communicate and protect younger seedlings. 2:28

Two Trees Make a Forest is a book by Jessica J. Lee. (Hamish Hamilton, Ricardo A. Rivas)

Two Trees Make a Forest is a nonfiction book that explores how geographical forces are interlaced with our family stories. A chance discovery of letters written by her immigrant grandfather leads Jessica J. Lee to her ancestral homeland, Taiwan. There, she traces his story while growing closer to the land he knew. Throughout her adventures, Lee uncovers surprising parallels between nature and human stories that shaped her family and their beloved island. In the memoir, she also turns a critical eye on colonialist explorers who mapped the land and named plants, and both relied on and often erased the labour and knowledge of local communities.

Two Trees Make a Forest won the 2020 Hilary Weston Writers’ Trust Prize for Nonfiction and the adventure travel category for the 2021 Banff Mountain Book Competition. It was also a finalist for Canada Reads 2021, when it was championed by singer-songwriter Scott Helman.

Lee is a British Canadian Taiwanese author, environmental historian and winner of the RBC Taylor Prize Emerging Author Award. She also wrote the memoir Turning.

The Next Chapter11:58Jessica J. Lee on Two Trees Make a Forest

Jessica J. Lee’s 2021 Canada Reads contender, Two Trees Make a Forest, In Search of My Family’s Past Among Taiwan’s Mountains and Coasts. 11:58 

Watermelon Snow is a book by Lynne Quarmby. (McGill-Queen’s University Press)

Watermelon snow is the name given to snow that goes pink or red from a species of ice loving algae. Watermelon Snow is also the name of Canadian scientist Lynne Quarmby’s latest book. It’s about a recent adventure trip she took on a schooner full of artists in the high Arctic. Her years of climate change activism hadn’t achieved what she had imagined, and she was deeply concerned about the future of the planet.

Quarmby is a Canadian scientist, activist and politician. She is a professor and chair of the department of molecular biology and biochemistry at Simon Fraser University in Burnaby, B.C.

The Next Chapter11:54Lynne Quarmby on Watermelon Snow

Lynne Quarmby talks to Shelagh Rogers about her book, Watermelon Snow. 11:54

Land-Water-Sky / Ndè–Tı–Yat’a is a book by Katłıà. (Fernwood Publishing)

Land-Water-Sky / Ndè–Tı–Yat’a is a fictional composite novel with six parts. The experimental work imagines what it would be like if Indigenous legends were part of contemporary life, making mischief and reminding us of the importance and power of Indigenous history, culture and sharing stories.

Katłįà is a Dene writer and activist from the Northwest Territories. Land-Water-Sky / Ndè–Tı–Yat’a is her first novel. 

The Next Chapter1:53Katłįà Lafferty On Land-Water-Sky / Ndè-Tı-Yat’a,

Katłįà Lafferty on her debut novel, Land-Water-Sky / Ndè-Tı-Yat’a. 1:53

Bruce Kirkby is the author of Blue Sky Kingdom. (Douglas & McIntyre)

Bruce Kirkby’s life had become one of distraction — he realized he was looking mindlessly at his phone and social media for hours. It was a cycle that he was determined to overcome and break. With an eye on refocusing his life, in 2014 Kirkby embarked on a six-month journey with his family, travelling to and living in the Himalayas. Their destination: an ancient Buddhist monastery in the remote Zanskar valley, one of the last places where Tibetan Buddhism is still practised freely in its original setting. He wrote about the experience of avoiding modern distraction in Blue Sky Kingdom.

Kirkby is an adventurer, photographer and author from British Columbia.

The Next Chapter18:42Bruce Kirkby on Blue Sky Kingdom

Bruce Kirkby on his latest book, Blue Sky Kingdom: An Epic Family Journey to the Heart of the Himalaya. 18:42

This One Wild Life is a book by Angie Abdou. (ECW Press, Arsenal Pulp Press)

This One Wild Life is the story of a mother and daughter bonding over hiking. When Angie Abdou sees her daughter becoming more introverted, she decides to give them a challenge one summer: to hike a different peak near their Fernie, B.C., home each week. 

Abdou is a teacher, writer and frequent columnist for The Next Chapter. Her first novel, The Bone Cage, was a finalist on Canada Reads 2011. Her other books include In Case I Go and Home Ice.

The Next Chapter13:43Angie Abdou on This One Wild Life

TNC columnist and author talks to Shelagh Rogers on her latest memoir This One Wild Life. 13:43

Ice Walker is a book by James Raffan. (Simon & Schuster, Jason van Bruggen)

In Ice Walker, explorer and adventurer James Raffan asks readers to look at the Arctic through the eyes of a polar bear named Nanu and her family. As climate change changes the Arctic, the bear must figure out how to find food and shelter for her family. The landscape that is warming up, and precious ice is melting rapidly and everything is changing.

Raffan is a writer, teacher, geographer and adventurer. He has written more than 20 books, including Circling the Midnight Sun, Emperor of the North and Summer North of Sixty. His work has appeared in several Canadian media outlets, including the Globe and Mail, Canadian Geographic and CBC.

The Next Chapter12:27James Raffan on Ice Walker: A Polar Bear’s Journey Through the Fragile Arctic

James Raffan talks to Shelagh Rogers about his book, Ice Walker: A Polar Bear’s Journey Through the Fragile Arctic. 12:27

Bewilderment is a novel by Richard Powers. (Dean D. Dixon, Random House Canada)

Taking place in a “near-present,” Bewilderment is a portrait of the love between a bereaved father and his sensitive son Robin — who was partly inspired by climate activist Greta Thunberg. The novel combines the immediacy of a recognizable dystopian reality, including the climate crisis and the threat of species extinction, with imagined life on other planets.  

Bewilderment was a finalist for the 2021 Booker Prize. 

Richard Powers is an American novelist whose works explore the effects of modern science and technology. He won the Pulitzer Prize for fiction for The Overstory in 2019.

Writers and Company1:03:37In Bewilderment, Richard Powers explores the climate crisis, life in space, and the love of a father and son

Powers spoke with Eleanor Wachtel about his passion for writing novels that explore our relationship with the natural world. His new novel, Bewilderment, is a finalist for the 2021 Booker Prize. This conversation is presented in partnership with the Vancouver Writers Fest and the Toronto International Festival of Authors. 1:03:37

Weeding is a comic by Geneviève Lebleu. (Conundrum Press)

Weeding is a graphic novel and satirical portrayal of feminine archetypes in the social landscape of the 1960s. Martha hosts a group of middle-aged women at her suburban home on an autumn afternoon. The day takes a sudden turn when Elisabeth, an estranged friend, turns up unexpectedly — and she isn’t the only unwanted guest at the tea party. 

Geneviève Lebleu is a multidisciplinary artist from Québec City and is currently based in Montreal. Her work was featured in various events, exhibitions and festivals.

A Short History of the Blockade is a book by Leanne Betasamosake Simpson. (University of Alberta Press, Zahra Siddiqui)

A Short History of the Blockade was a lecture given by Leanne Betasamosake Simpson, as part of the CLC Kreisel Lecture Series. In A Short History of the Blockade, Simpson uses Michi Saagiig Nishnaabeg storytelling techniques to look at Indigenous blockades through the lens of the beaver, an animal known for building dams, which are natural blockades. A Short History of the Blockade looks at the intersection between culture, politics and nature and posits that dams, and blockades, are world-building and life-giving practices that have the potential to shape, or reshape, life as we know it.

Simpson is a Michi Saagiig Nishnaabeg scholar, activist, musician, artist, author and member of Alderville First Nation. Her work often centres on the experiences of Indigenous Canadians. Her other books include Islands of Decolonial LoveThis Accident of Being LostDancing on Our Turtle’s Back and As We Have Always Done

Ideas53:59The Brilliance of Beavers: Learning from an Anishnaabe World

Renowned Michi Saagiig Nishnaabeg scholar and artist, Leanne Betasamosake Simpson talks about the philosophy and ethics that undergird Anishnaabe worlds in her 2020 Kreisel Lecture entitled, A Short History of the Blockade: Giant Beavers, Diplomacy and Regeneration in Nishnaabewin. *Originally aired on April 16, 2020. 53:59

Not On My Watch is a book by Alexandra Morton. (Random House Canada, Chris Corday/CBC)

Alexandra Morton is a biologist and activist with a mission: to save British Columbia’s wild salmon. She’s been dedicated to this cause for 30 years. Not on My Watch chronicles this long fight, but also provides a roadmap for those who want to take up the cause and protect other natural habitats themselves.

Morton is a biologist and activist known for her research on ocean-based salmon farming. She has authored more than 20 scientific papers on the impact of salmon farming. Not on My Watch is her first book.

As It Happens27:32How this killer whale researcher ended up in a decades-long struggle to save wild salmon

Alexandra Morton had planned to devote her life to studying orcas, but when fish farms moved into her remote B.C. community, she couldn’t ignore their impact on wild salmon. The biologist has chronicled her decades-long crusade against open-net aquaculture in her new book, Not on My Watch. 27:32

Life in the City of Dirty Water is a book by Clayton Thomas-Muller. (Allen Lane, Thelma Young Lutunatabua)

A memoir by Cree activist Clayton Thomas-Muller, Life in the City of Dirty Water covers his entire life: from playing with toy planes as a way to escape from domestic and sexual abuse and enduring the intergenerational trauma of Canada’s residential school system; to becoming a young man who fought against racism and violence, but also spent time in juvenile prison; to becoming a committed activist. Along the way, Thomas-Muller tries to remain tied to his Cree heritage and spirituality.

Thomas-Muller is a member of the Treaty #6 based Mathias Colomb Cree Nation located in Northern Manitoba. He’s campaigned on behalf of Indigenous peoples around the world for more than 20 years, working with numerous organizations. 

The Sunday Magazine8:37Clayton Thomas-Müller reads from his memoir Life in the City of Dirty Water

In an adapted excerpt from his newly-released book Life in the City of Dirty Water: A Memoir of Healing, Cree author and activist Clayton Thomas-Müller reflects on his own family’s history with residential schools, and the path forward. 8:37

Troye Sivan’s Fans Helped Design His Miami Art Basel Stage

“If everything turns to shit, I’m gonna go run errands for Pamela Shamshiri,” joked Troye Sivan during his Miami Art Basel performance, referring to the interior design all-star whom he collaborated with on staging. It’s fitting, considering Sivan spent his lockdown living in Australia and renovating his Victorian-era Melbourne home alongside David Flack. (Reading nooks! apple tree centerpieces! the “most comfortable couch in the world!”)

For Architectural Digest‘s AD100 launch, the Aussie pop star was asked to work with Shamshiri and Lenovo Yoga to call upon fan submissions to bring his Art Basel installation to life. They sent in ideas for four categories — “Paradise on Earth,” “Technology and Progress,” “Living in the Moment,” “Beauty and Art” — and helped Sivan land on an original background for his acoustic South Beach set at The Goodtime Hotel.

This was Sivan’s second live show post-pandemic, following his opening slot for the 2021 VMAs, and his parents stood front-row, iPhones raised to document the entire thing with giant smiles. Sivan was openly nervous, which is fair considering the guest list included everyone from Pharrell to Venus Williams, but he confidently powered through an emotional set with songs like “could cry just thinking about you” and his summer smash, “You.”

Ahead of Art Basel, PAPER called up Sivan from his current home in LA to talk about pre-show anxiety, how COVID changed the way he approaches performance and why collaboration helps him get out of his own head.

How has your approach to live performances changed, especially after being forced to make the shift to all things virtual for so long?

I have a new level of gratitude for it. I really appreciate being able to sing for people in real life. At the same time, I got very comfortable, as well, with doing these virtual performances. They allow for creativity in a different way. Essentially, you’re producing music videos, so it takes away a lot of boundaries. But nothing can ever compete with the feeling of being in front of a real crowd. That interaction… it sounds so cheesy, but I got choked up [at the VMAs] the moment I remembered this is my job and my life. I think it had been so long, that it almost could’ve been one big fantasy or dream that I had. Now, I look back on photos of a show from my tour or maybe a festival that I played and I’m like, “Holy shit, I can’t believe that actually happened and that used to happen all the time.” Hopefully we’ll get there again where I’m doing it often, but for now it still feels like such an intense experience again.

When you’re sitting at home alone and just creating things for the internet, it’s really easy to develop an imposter syndrome or you forget that there are even people at the other end.

Completely. I came back [to the US] and I was like, “All these people still want to get in the studio with me? Sick. I just booked this TV show? What the fuck?” I was really surprised, I’ve been so detached from it for so long being in Australia. I moved back home, so even coming back here and seeing that my friends are still here and they all still want to be my friend… I don’t know how to describe it, it just felt like the whole thing could’ve been something I imagined: my whole life in America, my whole life as an artist, could’ve been something that I just dreamt up. And I was like, “Oh wait this is real and it’s still happening and everyone’s so cool.” I was coming from 0 to 100. My first weeks back [in the US], it was the Met Gala and stuff, so it really felt like the craziest transition.

It seems like you did a lot of development in isolation as an artist. You appear to be more comfortable, and especially with your sexuality, than ever before. Do you think that’s true?

I do think that’s true and it comes from, ultimately, I don’t really care as much as I used to. Not in a bad way, like I care so much about the music I’m making and the music videos. I care about my job a lot, but the stuff that surrounds it, like what people say or comments on the internet, I don’t care about them as much. During the pandemic, I found such a solid base, something I was longing for for a really long time was I was lying to myself about how homesick I was. Then when I got home to Australia and set myself up there with my family and friends that have been my friends since I was two, I truly feel in my heart of hearts that I know I could go back to Australia and go to Uni for graphic design, or something like that, and I know I’d be happy. So it took off all the extra pressure and reminded me I’m here doing this because I love what I do and I’m so stoked to have all these opportunities. But it also gave me the sense of confidence and security where I’m like, nothing really matters. Just do it because you’re enjoying it, because you love it.


Photo via BFA/ Michele Sandberg

Pre-pandemic, the industry was like, Go go go. Is this song going number one? Will I become the biggest pop star in the world? Did you ever have that ambition and now do you feel more comfortable existing in whatever environment you find yourself in?

The people I’ve always looked up to, for example, someone like Mark Ronson or Robyn… I see the way they live their lives and I feel like they’re confident to just do good work and then live a good life at the same time. That’s my dream. At a certain point, I would imagine, your work would eclipse your ability to have a good life. I’m really intimidated by the thought of, and not saying I ever could do this, but having that level of commercial success. I think it would really impact your ability to hang out with friends or go to a club or go to a grocery store, and those are all things I really enjoy doing. So I don’t ever aspire to that, but I do think, and I’m even feeling it now, when you’re here in America and there are these cool opportunities and you’re loving your job, it’s very easy to prioritize that over something like family or friends. And I’m so lucky, this is coming from a place of privilege to do this, but I’m like, “You know what? No,I’m actually going to take off some time in December even if we have to say ‘no’ to that really cool thing cause I want to go on a family holiday for the first time in two years.” So it’s kind of a conscious effort to try and maintain some sort of balance in my life.

Those breaks are important to create work with intention, because otherwise it’s so easy to keep making more, but what exactly are we putting out? You’ve done such an incredible job, especially in the past few years, of releasing projects that look beautifully styled and art directed. You mentioned wanting to go to school for graphic design. Do you feel yourself growing more interested in the visual side of music?

I’ve always really loved that side of it. I’ve always loved photoshop. For me, I’m writing a good song when I’m imagining a music video, so the visuals have always been a huge part of my expression. But then I branched out over the pandemic and designed my house in Australia. I had such a good time falling into that world of interior design and architecture. I really fell in love with these YouTube videos about city planning and my mind definitely was in an exploratory phase. I was really enjoying being bored enough to find new interests because I hadn’t done that in a really long time. And that’s part of again this feeling of security for me. I have so much I want to do, and so much that interests and excites me. My main priority in life is to be happy and mentally stimulated, and I’m lucky that’s happening in music and in acting and in film, right now. I’m also curious to see what shape that takes in other industries or areas of my life. I don’t think I’m going to quit and go to Uni anytime soon, but I feel a sense of peace knowing that it’s there.

Your Art Basel performance is very visual and involved fan submissions for the stage design. Talk me through that process from the beginning and what it was like to work alongside Pamela Shamshiri.

This performance is a combination of pretty much everything we’ve been talking about, which is all my favorite things. It’s design, it’s live performance, it’s music, it’s collaboration. It’s a collaboration between me and Pamela, who’s my favorite interior designer, and then this collaboration with people from all over the US that submitted their ideas, treatments, mood boards, drawings and photos. That’s something that came out of the pandemic: outreach to the people who follow me on Instagram or Twitter became so important and inspiring to me. One of the first things I did in march 2020 was outreach to people for graphic design. It felt so nice to have something that made me feel connected to other people and something that made me feel inspired from my bedroom. I’m never not floored by how great the ideas are, so it was really nice to hop on a Zoom with the winners and talk through where their ideas came from and the “why” behind what they do. Each of them had such specific, different mediums that they were passionate about. Pam and I worked through the ideas, and came up with a really cool stage design and performance.


Photo via BFA/ Angela Pham

It’s always interesting to get an outside perspective on your work.

That’s the thing about collaboration: I would have never come up with half these ideas. It’s so cool to be able to stretch your mind and get out of your own head.

How’d you and Pamela determine what criteria to look at all the submissions through?

I think the criteria was people who felt genuinely inspired from a genuine place. Finding people who found their medium and really expressed themselves through that. One of the winners we spoke to worked exclusively in flowers and their whole treatment was floristry. We spoke to him for like five minutes and he had me thinking about flowers in the most beautiful way: talking about how sometimes beautiful things are not made to last and the flowers are going to die and the fact that they existed in that form in that one moment is beautiful enough. It was so inspiring to talk to all these people, that’s just one example.

One submission category was “Living in the Moment.” What does that mean to you, right now?

Living in the moment is something we’ve all had to really practice doing over the last two years. I’ve had my own struggles with anxiety, which is literally my definition of not living in the moment, and I often find myself not living in the moment. So developing those skills of trying to bring yourself back to the present and if you can create some piece of art that helps people do that… maybe it’s the flowers, maybe it’s a really intimate music performance, I think that’s sweet and very needed.


Photo via BFA/ Angela Pham

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Pamplin Media Group – Geren’s under new ownership with same name, small-town feel

Gresham-based Van Zant family bought Sandy farm supply store on Wednesday, Dec. 1

PMG PHOTO: BRITTANY ALLEN - Sheila and Jerry Van Zant took ownership of Geren's on Dec. 1. For more than 40 years, Kathy and Les Geren of Geren’s Farm Supply have served the Sandy and Boring communities livestock feed needs. Now, they have finalized the sale of the business so a new family can fill that niche.

On Dec. 1, Jerry and Sheila Van Zant took the helm at Geren’s, keeping the name but expanding the merchandise at the store. The Van Zants live in Gresham for now and also own a landscaping supply company called All About Stone.

Because of this landscaping connection, the Gerens’ daughter, Roz Rushing, said the sale seemed to bring the family’s experience full circle.

“Ma and Pa started as entrepreneurs in the landscaping business and now it’s coming back to the Geren’s name,” Rushing said. “I’m very excited for this next chapter and to see the Van Zant family continue and expand the family (business). I feel like Dad helped bring them to us.”

Kathy is staying aboard for a while to help ease the transition for the Van Zants, staff and the community.

“It was our goal to sell, so I’m glad we’re at this point,” Kathy explained. “Now is time for a new phase in life. We’ve had a lot of customers ask if Geren’s was going to stay a feed store and they are happy it will. I’m excited we didn’t have to liquidate. It’ll stay a store and they’re going to put their own touch on it and see how it goes.”

The Van Zants will blend the current retail and feed options of Geren’s with landscaping supplies, and potentially more outdoor supplies like barbecues and coolers, besides keeping what Geren’s has historically supplied for customers.

Jerry Van Zant said one of the appeals of buying Geren’s was that it’s a “well-known, well-established and well-liked business.”PMG FILE PHOTO: BRITTANY ALLEN - The Gerens opened the farm supply store on Kelso Road and Highway 26 more than 40 years ago. Les passed away on Sept. 12, but Kathy will spend her retirement 'able to do more of the things I want to do.'

The Van Zants have retained all of the staff of the Geren’s and are happy to have the help of those long-time employees.

“Sandy is a growing community nowadays,” Sheila Van Zant added. “We know that we definitely have a lot to learn and (the staff) will be our best teachers. Besides the building and land, they’re our best asset.”

Though the Van Zants don’t yet live in Sandy, both of their children do, and their daughter-in-law Maggie will help with the business.

“When I walked into Geren’s for the first time, I knew this was me,” Jerry Van Zant said. “This is an amazing location. People should look for changes. It’s going to be fun (though) it’s going to be hard to fill (the Gerens’) shoes.”

The Van Zants also plan to continue events like the annual tractor show, among other new opportunities.

“It’s a lot off of my shoulders,” Kathy Geren said of her retirement. “I’ll start being able to do things I want to do.”

Kathy plans to spend time tending to the home garden she and Les planted and cared for together.

“It was a good run, a good time in life,” Kathy added. “But we were both ready to move on. I’m just sad that he doesn’t get to do it with me. We appreciate the community’s support over the years; they’ve been good to us and we tried to reciprocate.”


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What Is ‘Art Jewelry’? Look at the Term Again.

Emily Waterfall, the head of Bonhams’s jewelry department in Los Angeles, knew she was dealing with something special in November 2020, when she found herself inside a private storage facility surrounded by thousands of pieces of jewelry owned by Byron and Jill Crawford, a local couple who had devoted 40 years to collecting.

“The first piece I opened was the Picasso Grand Faune,” Ms. Waterfall said.

Like his fellow artists Alexander Calder, Salvador Dalí and Man Ray, Pablo Picasso dabbled in jewelry. To make the Grand Faune pendant, Picasso worked with the goldsmith François Hugo, who immortalized the impish-looking face of the half human, half goat creature in 23-karat gold. The men made 20 pieces, one of which (No. 7) belonged to the Crawfords.

In mid-October, that pendant sold for $62,813 in “Wearable Art: Jewels From the Crawford Collection,” a noteworthy Bonhams sale that featured 314 lots of jewelry by some of the 20th century’s most important makers — including the modernists Art Smith and Margaret De Patta, the Hopi jeweler Charles Loloma and the American-born, Mexico-based silver jeweler William Spratling. Totaling $1.7 million, the sale was the first single-owner collection of artist jewelry ever presented at auction. Bonhams already is planning a second art jewelry sale for next fall.

“I was beyond flabbergasted by the response,” Ms. Waterfall said. “But we’re just at the beginning.”

Ms. Waterfall was referring to a growing segment of the jewelry market — sometimes called “art jewelry” — focused on one-of-a-kind pieces that often, but not always, employ non-precious materials to convey meaning.

The category dates from at least the turn of the 20th century, when the Art Nouveau master René Lalique challenged traditional notions of preciousness by incorporating glass and horn into his creations. In recent years, a wave of interest among museum curators, collectors and gallerists, not to mention a growing secondary market, has cast a spotlight on this esoteric niche.

Sienna Patti, the founder of a namesake contemporary jewelry gallery in Lenox, Mass., explained the momentum behind art jewelry partly as a collective search for authenticity. “Younger generations want something that feels real,” she said. “Buying something mass produced feels less appealing.”

Lately, that interest has been stoked by arbiters of culture, such as the producers of “Craft in America,” a PBS series whose new episode on jewelry began streaming on Nov. 4, and institutions such as the Cincinnati Art Museum, where an exhibition titled “Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s” is on view through Feb. 6.

The easiest way for art lovers to understand the category may be through pieces like the Grand Faune, a classic example of how fine artists “use different media to express themselves,” said Louisa Guinness, whose gallery in London represents, as she described it, “painters and sculptors who made forays into jewelry,” including 20th-century artists such as Picasso, Calder and Max Ernst and contemporary makers such as Anish Kapoor, Antony Gormley and Ed Ruscha.

“Calder is the ‘get’ in this world,” Ms. Guinness said. She singled out the American sculptor as the rare artist who made his own jewels, rather than outsourcing the manufacturing to a workshop.

“He constantly had a pair of pliers in his pocket,” she said. “You’d go to stay in his house and he’d attack the silverware drawer and would have a beautiful brooch waiting for you with his initials. He made 1,800 pieces out of mostly silver or brass, all very well archived by his foundation.”

Ms. Guinness said when she opened her gallery in 2003, she made a conscious decision to focus on fine artists who had crossed over, however briefly, into jewelry. “I wanted to be known for one thing,” she said.

“Having said that, I am now, nearly 20 years on, moving over a little bit,” she added. “I do a show at Christmas every year where I do select jewelers who are artists, not artists who are jewelers. But I will only buy or represent people who make one-off or limited editions.”

Ms. Guinness is not the only one with a newfound openness to the notion of jewelers as artists.

“Museums are just waking up to the artistry involved in jewelry making,” said Cynthia Amnéus, chief curator and the curator of fashion, arts and textiles at the Cincinnati Art Museum.

Take the 120 or so pieces on display in the museum’s “Simply Brilliant” exhibition, which is based on a collection of 1960s and 1970s jewelry owned by Kimberly Klosterman, a Cincinnati native who said she discovered her love for the era’s independent jewelers — including Andrew Grima, Gilbert Albert, Arthur King, Jean Vendome and Barbara Anton — when she took a Sotheby’s jewelry course in London in the mid-1990s.

“Looking for jewelry by artist-jewelers, at that time, was not so easy,” Ms. Klosterman recalled. “Art fairs were not showing it at all. I would find the odd pieces and buy them out of what some dealers called their ‘big and ugly boxes.’ I tried to rescue pieces before they were scrapped.”

Even though the jewelers Ms. Klosterman gravitated toward did enjoy commercial and critical success in their day (Grima, for one, was a favorite of Princess Margaret’s), their use of traditional materials such as gold was secondary to their artistic visions. They often sought to evoke nature by texturing their metal and eschewing diamonds in favor of unusual, occasionally raw gem materials.

“When you read interviews with these artists, they talk about themselves first as artists, second as jewelers,” Ms. Amnéus said.

To hear Melanie C. Grant, the London-based editor, stylist and author of Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry,” tell it, the gulf that has historically separated the two worlds is narrowing.

“In the 2020s, you have a combination of exceptional jewelry artists working in interesting materials,” Ms. Grant said. “That has culminated in a moment where galleries and collectors, the life force of fine art, are actually entertaining this as fine art.”

She referred to some of the market’s most desired and collectible jewelers, including Joel Arthur Rosenthal, a.k.a. JAR, an American based in Paris who initially “did stuff with color and scale and texture that changed what was possible for many designers,” she said.

The New York jeweler James Taffin de Givenchy; the Hong Kong-based lapidary and jeweler Wallace Chan; the family-owned brand Hemmerle in Munich; and Jacqueline Rabun, “a modern minimalist based in L.A.,” also topped Ms. Grant’s list.

At the opposite end of the spectrum are contemporary studio jewelers who, unlike the high jewelers cited above, use found objects and banal materials to tell stories about themselves and the world around them.

“They’ll use wood or shells or lots of things that have no intrinsic value,” said Susan Cummins, founder and board chair of the nonprofit Art Jewelry Forum and co-author of the 2020 book “In Flux: American Jewelry and the Counterculture.” “The value of the piece comes from their ideas or their skills in making it.”

She named a handful of critically acclaimed artists whose work she admires, including Gijs Bakker from the Netherlands; Joyce Scott, a 2016 MacArthur Fellow based in Baltimore; and Dorothea Prühl, a talented wood carver from Germany, known for her dramatic, nature-inspired necklaces.

Many experts in the category also cited Lola Brooks of Atlanta, whose work occupies both the precious and conceptual worlds. “She’s playing on the saccharine quality of jewelry, nostalgia and sentimentality,” Ms. Patti said. “Her work can be very oversized or really small, and often has humor in it, but she’s using traditional skills.”

The unifying thread among all of these disparate studio jewelers is their desire to imbue their work with meaning, often resulting in bold statement jewels that disregard traditional aesthetic ideals and, sometimes, even the basics of wearability.

Their jewels have “political and sociological content — they deal with issues of gender, race and sex,” said Toni Greenbaum, a New York-based art historian and author of “Messengers of Modernism: American Studio Jewelry 1940-1960.” “Their jewelry has meaning beyond its use as an accessory.”

It should come as no surprise that the customers for such pieces are not typical jewelry buyers.

“My clients are not interested in fashion or trends,” said Lisa M. Berman, a contemporary art jewelry advocate and gallerist based in Laguna Beach, Calif., whose Sculpture to Wear by-appointment showroom stages pop-ups and events around Southern California. “They are well heeled, well traveled, and they are interested in conveying a nonverbal message with a piece of jewelry.”

Compared with traditional fine jewelry, art jewels are considerably less expensive. “You could buy a really good piece of art jewelry for under $5,000,” Ms. Cummins said. “And you can buy a lot of the greatest jewelers in this field for $20,000 to $25,000.”

To gain familiarity with the category, experts advise newcomers to read books, visit the Art Jewelry Forum website and follow artists on Instagram. They also advise attending art and design fairs such as Salon Art + Design in New York; the European Fine Art Fair, better known as TEFAF, in Maastricht, the Netherlands, and New York; and Design Miami.

For a hands-on education, however, nothing rivals seeing the work in person. In the United States, Ornamentum in Hudson, N.Y., and Ms. Patti’s Massachusetts gallery are highly regarded. So are Atta Gallery in Bangkok and, in New Zealand, Fingers and The National.

In Europe, Galerie Marzee in the Dutch city of Nijmegen, about a 90-minute drive southeast of Amsterdam, is widely considered to be the finest showcase of contemporary art jewelry in the world. Founded in 1979 by Marie-José van den Hout, the gallery is spread across four floors, including one dedicated to Ms. van den Hout’s personal collection of about 2,000 pieces.

“It’s not commercial and you can hardly make a living with this sort of jewelry,” Ms. van den Hout said. “Sometimes people say, ‘Why don’t you sell easier jewelry?’ But for me, this is not so interesting.”